Nicholas Woolley isn’t your typical diplomat; he’s practically a legend in Zambia. During his four-year tenure as the British High Commissioner, he’s become ingrained in the soul of Zambian society, effortlessly bridging gaps between the upper crust and everyday people. His secret? A charm that’s as versatile as it is genuine.
Immersing himself in Zambian culture, Nicholas doesn’t just scratch the surface; he dives right in. From mastering the art of cooking nshima to stepping into traditional ceremonies, you might just find Woolley right in the midst of the action. But that’s just the beginning of his escapades. And when he’s not busy soaking in the rich culture, you’ll likely find him amidst the wildlife wonders exploring, or he’s probably taking Nyanja lessons.
Diggers Life embarked on a mission to uncover the captivating aspects of Woolley’s life beyond his diplomatic duties. Along the way, I realised that his knowledge of this country surpasses mine! At one point, he even unwittingly gave me a geography lesson, asking if I knew where the largest mammal migration occurs. He expresses his desire to relocate and live in Zambia once he concludes his diplomatic service.
And of course, I couldn’t miss and opportunity to get his reflections on Zambia’s democracy and development. While he hails Zambia for having multiple peaceful transitions, he finds it worrying that a country which is so rich in resources has one of the highest levels of inequality.
Dig in! I hope you’ll enjoy this as much as s I did:
Q: How are your Nyanja lessons going?
A: Well, I didn’t have formal lessons. I try to learn phrases and proverbs as I come across them from different parts of the country. It’s very much a work in progress. I just learn bits of different ones and often forget them. But I guess, mostly it’s Nyanja and Bemba. When I travel to different traditional ceremonies, I try to learn a few expressions. When I was in Zambezi at the Likumbi Lya Mize, a few words of Luvale crept into my speech. In Monze, I tried a few words of Tonga in my speech. Right now, I can’t remember, but I want to do an interview in different languages. I’m planning to do that before I leave, I’ll keep you surprised. I’ve been here for four and a half years. It’s a long time. So, we have a limit on the amount of time you can spend as head of mission in any country. I have extended my time in Zambia twice. It is quite unusual to be granted, especially on the second extension, but I’m not planning to go away forever. My wife and I are looking into it. We have a plot somewhere in the countryside to come back to live when our lives allow us. But it’s not in Lusaka, though I do enjoy Lusaka.
Q: What Zambian music genres or styles do you enjoy listening to? Is there a particular song or artist that holds special meaning for you, either personally or professionally?
A: There are wonderful Zambian genres. I remember meeting Jagari Chanda, the Witch lead guitarist, playing the guitar together one evening before going on a tour to the UK last Christmas period. And I guess more modern music as well. I took the kids to their first music concert last year, which was Pompi’s world tour concert here in Lusaka, so him and Esther of course, and the rest of the amazing Zambian musicians, artistes and singers like Wezi, B Flow, Mumba Yachi, Sampa the Great. It’s great to see how she has hit the scene globally, particularly in my country. I think playing twice at Glastonbury, which is like one of the world’s biggest-known music festivals, so it’s really an exciting period. I enjoy listening to both the modern and slightly less modern Zambian songs. I enjoy “Shamboko” by Pompi and Esther and a few from B Flow’s latest album. One that particularly stands out for me is the one we filmed here at my residence, “Tuleisakamana,” which, as you know, means “take care” in Bemba. It was at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, so it was great to work with Brian and a few other local musicians to create something that was really important at the beginning of COVID when we didn’t know what was going to happen. Just the message of taking care of ourselves and each other. And it has actually become one of the values that we have in the British High Commission, that we look out for each other, and especially adopted by Her Majesty’s government here in Zambia.
Q: Amidst your exploration of Zambian cuisine, have you discovered a particular dish that has become a favorite of yours? If so, could you tell us about it and what makes it special to you?
A: That clip where I was preparing nshima wasn’t recent. Actually, I did that during COVID when I was in quarantine for two weeks. It was just me and my family. You remember the requirements of that time: if you come back from abroad, you have to spend two weeks at home, and we were getting frustrated not to leave the house. So, I took my hands to do various things, including trying to cook nshima but not actually having an expert there to be able to instruct me. We created the video from our own experience. It received a lot of criticism in terms of the technique I was using. I didn’t have as much patience in cooking it, I think, as required generally speaking, so it came out better since, but that’s a few more years of experience.
I have nshima once a week. Did I have it today? No, I didn’t have it today. But I enjoy trying a variety of Zambian foods, and Chikanda is my favorite. I remember when I first tasted it, I thought it was meat, and I think a lot of people do, if you don’t know, and to find out it’s the balls of the orchids, it’s incredible really, very unique. Vinkubala, I enjoyed since my time in Congo, where I was before coming here. Kapenta is delicious. I try to have that particular one when I’m down in Siavonga and somewhere where it’s readily available.
Q: We’re aware you sometimes like to ride a bicycle to work, is it part of your exercise regimen? And what else do you do to keep fit?
A: I enjoy cycling. I vary my ways to work, and sometimes I cycle as I have done in different places. I have served in different places, including the UK, because exercise is important, and cycling is also a great way to experience and explore new places and meet people. Quite often, I will be cycling around town and around the country, stopping and chatting with people, and finding out about their lives. Though I am very environmentally conscious and recognise the devastating effects of climate change, as well as looking at how we, as the High Commission, can work with partners in Zambia, as well as in our personal lives and experiences, what small changes we can bring to help make sure the future for our children is sustainable because we have seen, especially here in Zambia recently, the devastating effects that climate change has on lives.
We all need to work together to address the effects of climate change. As with any problem, the first part is recognising there is a problem, acknowledging that, and working towards a solution. And that solution has been outlined in Paris, it has been outlined in Glasgow at COP26, and most recently at COP 28, and it requires a lot of the international community to come together to see through on their commitments, particularly countries like mine who historically have been the larger polluters, taking action and working with countries such as Zambia where there hasn’t been the cause of climate change but are certainly feeling the effects of it. And so, just tomorrow (March 22), I will be announcing the third package of support to our work here, to our Zambian partners, to tackle the effects, to address the cause, but also to adapt as well. I think adaptation is what we are all learning now and finding ways to mitigate the devastating effects like here, the drought.
I play football twice a week; that’s my main sport. I also play some tennis, golf, and I cycle, and I participate in running events. I don’t run unless there is an event. My local team is Nkwazi FC, the local side. I’ve seen them play; they won three nil the last time I was there. It was a little while ago, and they are not doing so well this season, so they are not celebrated as they might be. They have the biggest support in Zambia but not as much as Aston Villa in the UK, so I don’t mind supporting teams that aren’t always as successful as bigger ones.
Q: Many describe your approach to your role as British High Commissioner to Zambia as unique because you are able to comfortably relate to both the elite and the poor, as well as everybody in between. What inspired you to adopt such an open-door, approachable approach to diplomacy?
A: Each of us, we are human, and it’s all about diplomacy. It’s all about interacting with the people, and that’s how you learn and understand things – by speaking with people, understanding their perspective on things. I enjoy learning about new people; experiences provide lessons for each one of us.
Q: Share any insights or lessons which you’ve gained from your interactions with Zambian citizens which might have left a lasting impression on you?
A: The most touching, humbling, I guess, emotional moment for me was when the Queen, Her Majesty the late Queen Elizabeth, passed away and we were shown solidarity, sympathy, friendship from so many different parts of Zambian society who came to mourn to show support for us as we lost a monarchy. I remember particularly that period as we closed here at the end of a very long week. I remember a delegation of Impis sent by Paramount Chief Mpezeni here to my home. Right here, they gathered throughout the morning, throughout the day outside. They came, about 30 of them, beating their drums and singing in a very respectful, solemn way and delivered a very eloquent address acknowledging the loss we were suffering. Then, they laid a shield beneath the book of condolences, signed on behalf of the paramount chief. It really brought home to me the depth of our relationship from our cultural perspective, from so many different angles.
It was wonderful for me to have the chance last month to visit the chief in Chipata to thank him in person on his important day of Nc’wala for the show of solidarity and the respect he gave [during] our darkest moments and join with him celebrating the tradition of the Ngoni people marking his 41st year, I think, on the throne. I get a lot of pleasure being able to participate in traditional ceremonies as a guest, sometimes in a more active way, right across the country. So, I have travelled to Luapula for paramount Chief Mwata’s Umutomboko ceremony. I’ve traveled to the west for Kuomboka. I’ve traveled to the south for ceremonies in different parts of the country. And it’s really important as a visitor, as a guest to a country, to learn about traditions because they really inform about who we are as a people and provide a great understanding of identity. So, I enjoy learning from those processes and meeting people.
Q: Was that your first time at the Nc’wala traditional ceremony?
A: No, I’ve been there before. Actually, it was a wonderful experience to see people travel hundreds of miles to be there, and not just from this country but from Mozambique, Malawi, Eswatini, South Africa. I actually took my 84-year-old father, who came from the UK, to be there as well for the ceremony, and he said he has never experienced anything quite like it. I think there are so many takeaways from it, but one of them is that I will urge more of my countrymen and women to see and experience it because I have spoken about culture, identity, and traditional society, which is unique and a huge attraction for visitors to come and see and participate in these kinds of events. I hope that over the next few years, Zambia will continue to welcome more and more visitors, which will provide an increasing backbone to the economy. We know tourism provides strong potential for growth, jobs in terms of employment, supporting livelihoods, and seeing the unique offer that Zambia has, whether it’s traditional ceremonies, the wonderful cuisines, unique wildlife, landscapes, or meeting the warm, friendly Zambian people. There’s so much to offer, and it’s part of my job to encourage more people, as many people as possible, to come and experience it.
Q: Could you share with us one of your most memorable experiences since arriving in Zambia, whether it’s a cultural exchange, a community event, or a personal encounter?
A: At Mosi O Tunya, it was quite a fun yet slightly terrifying experience. Because I’m very scared of heights, I was a bit reluctant to do it, and Minister (Rodney Sikumba) was a great support. He had done it about six times already, so he jumped up onto the edge of Mosi O Tunya without any worries at all but dragged me up to sit beside him. That’s one of the major highlights of Mosi O Tunya. If Mosi O Tunya weren’t there, people would be talking about the magnificent falls all around the country, specifically on the northern circuit. One particular place that stands out for me is Chishimba Falls in Kasama, a spiritual place. Kalambo Falls, which I trekked to with my family last year, is up from Lake Tanganyika to the falls and back over 12 hours, covering about 16 kilometers. There are many unique experiences like the world’s biggest mammal migration. Do you know where that is? It’s Kasanka National Park in Chitambo, Central Province, I think. Around 10 million fruit bats come to very small parts of the area, and I’ve been there three or four times to experience that. You’ve got the world’s second-biggest migration in the lower plains. More people need to know about the lower plains and experience them. Kafue National Park is exciting to see the potential there starting to be realised now. I’m excited about the potential of the doorstep here, the Lusaka National Park. I used to visit it very regularly during Covid, I used to take myself around. It’s a very peaceful and calming forest on the edge of the city, which I urge people to take the opportunity to visit.
Q: Which ones haven’t you visited and are still on your bucket list?
A: I have visited many of them, but I have four on my list. The first of those is Nakonde, and I’m planning to take the train there in a couple of months’ time. I hope I can attend the groundbreaking ceremony of the new border facilities which the UK is supporting through the Zambian government and Trade Mark Africa. This will allow up to 10 times increase in the volume of traffic and trade that can be transited through that border. I hope to travel to Sioma in Sesheke, where we have been supporting a very exciting energy project, Western Power. We are looking to develop one of the river facilities to provide electricity for the region there and beyond.
And Mwinilunga, I haven’t visited the source of the Zambezi, but of course also where the Lobito transit economic corridor, we hope, whether that vision will become a reality and link Zambia through the Angolan coast and provide economic opportunities for the people who live in that region and right through the Copperbelt. Those are my target places. Lundazi as well, I was hoping I could get there last month but I am not sure if there is going to be a chance now. I’ve been to Mambwe, Mfuwe, Chipata, of course, several times, but I have travelled a lot. I’ve journeyed up from there to North Luangwa and across to Mpika. When I was in Chipata, I did as many locals do and took a bicycle taxi rather than a car taxi, which again, it’s a green alternative but also an aspect of culture.
Q: What are some of your reflections on Zambia’s governance and development since you took up this role until now?
A: I’ve been here for four and a half years, and I have seen just what Zambia has to offer. It’s an incredible country, with the warmest people. Maybe I have had two voices raised in the time I have been here. There’s a lot of respect for each other; it’s a peaceful country, and it’s been a peaceful country for a long, long time. It’s a very rich country in the sense that the potential for agriculture, for mining, energy, for food production in the region, it’s looking for potential for Zambian produce. And yet, in the last few years, we have seen the level of poverty increase. Official statistics show that levels of inequality are some of the highest in the world. I think Zambia is the fourth highest country in terms of inequality. People are suffering where people are struggling with climate change, which is drought, with the effects of cholera. For all that Zambia has, I ask myself why this potential is not realised, and something has to change.
I was here for the 2021 elections, and people turned up in millions to make the change, but change doesn’t come overnight; it’s a long, long process, and the challenges that come Zambia’s way may need to be processed harder, the issue of the debt and also there is understandably a degree of impatience and the reforms are now being undertaken although in some cases, tough choices at the heart the reasons behind that is to try to make this change transformation so I think it’s important for us, as well as partners in this process to look at how in our cooperation, we can support that process of change, of transformation and so we have a very broad partnership.
Today I was with the police looking at the launch of the public service charter for the Police Complaints Commission to make the police to be accountable as possible as the public service body to the people that it serves. Yesterday I spoke about launching the Nakonde in aligning trade between the African nations to be improved to be facilitated, I mentioned that we’re launching a new support to climate carbon markets ensuring the cooperation we provide helps to make transformation possible.
Q: Is the democratic space shrinking in the country? Just this morning, opposition political parties paid you a visit.
A: Yes, I met them right here actually where we are, but as is always the case, we meet with all different parts of the political spectrum because just as Zambia National Assembly is made up of different elected officials from different political parties and different parts of the country, all who have a role in Zambia’s legislation, in governance, it’s important for us to understand the country and the Zambian people and understanding how we can partner in a constructive way possible; we engage with all different parts of the political spectrum in a very political way, we don’t school any particular parties, we never have we’ll never will but we do that so that we can do understand the challenges but also how we can work with different parties towards the solutions and the Zambian people. I have served in places where democracy is very different to how it is here and there’s no country in Africa that has more changes in party power in the last 30 years or so than Zambia, you’ve had more in Zambia, you’ve had more party changes than we’ve had in the UK in that time. The Zambian people also there are very keen to demonstrate the democratic values, the values that democracy brings and I think it’s not just about elections but being involved in day to day matters of governance because at the end of the day, when we talk about change, about potential, issues of governance and that’s something that strikes me being here for the time I have been here, what strikes me is that people value the right to be involved in decisions that affect them on a daily life basis and that’s something we as the UK, strong democratic partner to Zambia, will continue to support. The role of the politician is to ultimately to reflect the will of the people, in a democracy, at least you elected them and regardless of where you are on the political spectrum, I am always encouraged when I hear politicians talk about wanting to work constructively together and opposition saying we will work with the government and government with the opposition because at the end of the day, that’s when the genuine interest of the people are at stake then cooperation on anything between anyone and that same goes for politics and politicians.
